Barbarian Days (Heftet)

A Surfing Life


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Innbinding: Heftet
Utgivelsesår: 2016
Antall sider: 512
Forlag: Little, Brown Book Group
Språk: Engelsk
ISBN/EAN: 9781472151414
Omtale: Barbarian Days
WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 SHORTLISTED FOR THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

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